Building a PC for NOS1a

[music33]

I plan on building a PC specifically for the NOS1a.  I would like to make it as silent as possible and optimized for sound quality.  I have spent hours looking through the forums here to see what I need, but due to being a novice I don't think everything is clicking.  As far as I can tell here is the way to go

Hardware -
CPU - Intel Core i7-3930k
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492&cm_re=i7_3930k-_-19-116-492-_-Product

Motherboard - ASRock x79 Extreme4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157282&cm_re=ASRock_x79-_-13-157-282-_-Product
Should I be concerned about the reliability issues mentioned in the reviews on Newegg?  Is there an equivalent Intel motherboard?

Memory - 16 gig any recommendations?

Case - any recommendations?

Video Card - any recommendations (again this is just for XXHighEnd)

Hard Drive - should it SSD? size? any recommendations?

Cooling System - any recommendations?

Power Supply - it seems the smaller PS, better sound quality.  any recommendations.  from what I've read clean power in the pc is important for sound quality.

Is there any other hardware I will need?

Software

Windows 8

From what I understand there are many tweaks that can be done to the OS to turn off features (e.g. windows services) that will optimize sound quality.  Does anyone have a list of these? 

Anything else I've missed I should be aware of?

I know I asked a lot of questions.  I will consolidate answers for the next person ;-)

thanks all,
dave

[Mamba315]

Consider getting the XXHE PC from Peter.  He's already done all the work and his labor charge is very reasonable considering how much time he spent on research (and assembly).  Mine is inaudible FWIW.

[michaeljeger]

Hi

This is the current build I am working on:

Board:Asrock X99M Extreme4, mATX, LGA2011-v3 Intel X99
CPU: Intel XEON E5-2620V3 2.40GHZ (Hexacore, no onboard GFX)
RAM :Crucial 16GB KIT DDR4 2133 MT/s 8GBx2 RDIMM 288pin x4 ECC, 1.2V
GFX: Asus GF EN210 SILENT/DI/1GD3/V2 low power
USB: SilverStone EC04-P
SSD: Samsung Evo 840
PSU:    PicoPSU-150-XT 150W 12V DC-DC ATX
CASE: Streacom ST-FC9B HTPC Fanless Case

This rig will be built with the assumption of that these components are all super energy efficient, so hopefully very little internal (electrical) noise.
You will probably see that this is based on the very new X99 Chipset which is suppost more energy efficient than previos generations.


With the PicoPSU-150-XT, upgrading to a fully linear PSU is always possible should I decided to do so.
The RAM (DDR4) is running with just 1.2V maybe will be able to even tweak down some more.

This built will be completed over the next weeks.

Regards, Michael

[boleary]

Michael, looks like a really interesting build. Will your PSU run off a 12 volt battery or some sort of a wall wart? Just wondering.

[michaeljeger]

For the time being, I will use the following external 12V PSU:

http://www.amazon.de/dp/B006Z9TQE6/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_M3T1_dp_1


Later on, I might upgrade to something like this (just swap):

http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Fanless-Linear-Power-Supply-for-PC-Audio-and-CE-device.html

Of course, a battery would probably also work

Regards, Michael

[manisandher]

I plan on building a PC specifically for the NOS1a.

Hi Dave, Michael's build looks pretty good. Maybe you should just follow his?

For the time being, I will use the following external 12V PSU:

http://www.amazon.de/dp/B006Z9TQE6/ref=pe_386171_51767411_TE_M3T1_dp_1


Later on, I might upgrade to something like this (just swap):

http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Fanless-Linear-Power-Supply-for-PC-Audio-and-CE-device.html

Of course, a battery would probably also work

Hi Michael, nice build!

I've often wondered whether there's much point in feeding a PicoPSU with a linear PS or battery. In terms of getting a lower ripple to the mobo, I'd be surprised if there's any difference. The real benefit may be in preventing a load of HF garbage being sent back into the AC mains from a switching PS. If so, there are other ways to attack this, e.g. simply using an isolation transformer for the PC, as I have done.

Having said this, I would love to get rid of the last SMPS from my system, for purely psychological reasons. I may have to follow you at some point.

Thanks for sharing.

Mani.

[CoenP]

I've often wondered whether there's much point in feeding a PicoPSU with a linear PS or battery. In terms of getting a lower ripple to the mobo, I'd be surprised if there's any difference.

The simple Pico PSUs bypass the 12V. So this will be linear anyway.
The challenge is to get a more complex pc started up properly. They now sell Picos that can do that.

The real benefit may be in preventing a load of HF garbage being sent back into the AC mains from a switching PS. If so, there are other ways to attack this, e.g. simply using an isolation transformer for the PC, as I have done.

That's also my thesis. If you are going the linear PSU way, than it makes sense to spend the extra money on a screened transformer.
Besides lower noise in the power line, stability of the power line is key too. Here the quality SMPS is at the advantage.
Next to that, I read once that CPUs run cooler on a linear PSU, I guess there must be less interaction between the CPU load and its supply leading to less losses. You get it: cannot really reason out what is more important though linear looks good from more than one perspective. Only trying will tell in the end.

Having said this, I would love to get rid of the last SMPS from my system, for purely psychological reasons. I may have to follow you at some point.

Shure. The Mobo itself is one big SMPS, just to start with the 12V line for the CPU i.e. 1.25V@ 60Amps all smps'd from the 12V line.

Thanks for sharing, I'm looking into upgrading the PC too, but am still in the fantasy stage. Got inspired by the Laptop experiments. All this stuff helps.

regards, Coen

[michaeljeger]

Hi Mani

This actually started as a build for my son.
I tried to collect all useful info here and built on the information in the forum. Let's see how it sounds

If I am lucky I will have all components very soon to start.

I will for sure take pictures and report back.

BTW..... the OS will be Windows 8.

Regards, Michael

[music33]

Michael, thanks so much.  I will most likely build something very similar.  I love that is low energy.  The only possible changes would be the following
- not use a SSD - - i believe i have read that SSD can affect the sound quality.  different vendors affect the sound differently
- not use the SUSB Silverstone - i have read mixed results on this board using the Phasure.  Here is a quote from pedal
"My PC sounds the best with its own MOB. I tried the Silverstone soundcard, both with/without isolation etc, but it gave a kind of artificially coloration in the treble. (Ground lift on both ends reduced this coloration, but didn’t remove it)."

perhaps with the NOS1a these things are moot...

again thanks.  please keep us informed how things progress and if there any gotchas!

[christoffe]

Hi,

based on my experience with the laptop Michaels route with an external PS is the most promising.

It will be interesting to see what Coen is digging out too.

I’m sure, exciting/thrilling times are ahead of us.

Joachim

[music33]

Found this video on building a silent PC, it is pretty close to the one described here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RC_xM5ecq5w

Very nice case. 

[music33]

How do you plan on getting the OS on the computer without a CD/DVD player?
thanks.

[acg]

You can use a USB stick that is formed using this sort of tool. 

[michaeljeger]

I think at the moment the Streacom cases are the best suited products for silent Audio PCs.

I agree that they look also good in a Audio Rig

I would propose to add:

- Microsoft WEDGE MOBILE KEYBOARD
- Microsoft SCULPT COMFORT MOUSE
- Belkin F8T016ng Mini Bluetooth Adapter USB 2

As you can see all is Bluetooth here.
Note:
This specific Belkin Bluetooth Adapter is one of the few ones that allows you to use a Bluetooth KB at startup as well. So you will be able to use your Bluetooth KB to do Bios adjustments if needed.
If you do not need the KB / Mouse, just unplug the Bluetooth adapter

Hope that helps.

Michael

[PeterSt]

Uhm ... I would be VERY careful with *any* wireless connections. This is all up to you, but don't blame me when the sound went bad or hiccups etc. occur.

Notice that for the normal NOS1 situation this was all forbidden and for the "a" version there's just no explicit reporting that I know of.
Even using USB for keyboard and mouse is a (now only theoretical) no-go.

Regards,
Peter