My own Orelo MKII's have been playing around for some 4 weeks now, and I feel it took 3 weeks for them to get loose enough so I can be definite of its qualities.
Please notice : I am not writing this as a commercial text so I will also not describe matters in absolute sense. So what I will try to describe is how this speaker will sound different to all what we're used to, regardless price. And for those who read this out of the blue without knowing me : It can only be for the very best possible in audio just because I am into that explicitly and that only. If it were not the very best to my own knowledge, it would not be here. Or at least not in this forum.
But what is "the very best" ?
First of all (and for me) :
Total Neutrality;
I know, this is a tough one for a speaker, but by now I think I can say that it's easier to make a speaker "neutral" than a DAC (to name something). Anyway it is my very foremost requirement, because I just can not live with ever the same sounds which might be obvious but which is also about what you are used to (and I have been spoiled already).
So, big deal, neutrality ?
Now wait. We are talking about an open baffle speaker which is capable of enourmous power in the bass (3x 15") and don't you think that it is an easy job to make that bass neutral. I think it takes spades of experience to know what "neutral" actually is for the lower regions, and it is not just about colouring as we might know from earlier "hi-fi" eras;
When a speaker goes straight to 19Hz (+/-0.5dB) like this one it is all so easy to tune in too loud under say 30Hz. Oh, you will have slam alright when done so, but it might occur to you that the slam gets tiring after a few days. So "all the time slam" is not a neutral thing. Slam must be there when intended, and must not be there when not intended. So that's what I meant with the necessity of spades of experience, because this is not so easy to tell.
Also let's not forget our playback software and tweaks in there, because obviously we need to see through that (virtually eliminate it) to deliver an inherently neutrally sounding speaker. This is a most tough job of course.
Without wanting to drift off, I will by saying that the latter is the exact reason for all the adjustments the owner of the speaker can make. So, we
know how vastly another Operating System can change the sound, or how (new) XXHighEnd tweaks do, or how others do not use a computer at all, or use Foobar etc. - it ALL makes a huge difference. Not everybody knows, but in this forum we we all do, and I think I am (allowed to be) upfront with that.
So the Orelo MKII sounds totally neutral when it was tuned to the specific situation.Of course people may add "yeah, through your ears", but although to some degree that might be true it is only for a small degree because something like neutrality is an absolute phenomenon hence it is not subjective. But again, it needs the experience.
You may read the above as an "oh, so when I receive the speakers I must start tuning to my specific situation, right ?"
Well, sort of, but actually not. For this time assumed that the owners will all use the same best situation and which is actually depicted by this very forum, we will tell eachother what to do/set, with at least at first me ahead. So for example, when the current XXHighEnd version best utilizes Settings XYZ, then the speaker will be tuned to that by (at first) me, and all what's needed further is that we copy eachother's settings (and start tweaking from there).
So let's see what actually the parameters (possible variations) are (at least for current due owners) :
- We all use XXHighEnd;
- We all use the NOS1 D/A converter;
- We all use the same amplification (because built-in);
- We all use the same speaker wireing in normal circumstances (because built-in);
- We can all use the same DSP settings (because shared as config files);
- We do not use the same interlinks;
- We do not have the same rooms;
- We might not use the same
Fletcher-Munson settings/curves (this already can depend on the genre we play);
- We might have added room correction settings in the DSP (but I never will).
So as you see not all that many variables exist and when room correction is left out of the equation, we should all be able to copy eachother's found settings and have all neutral (again).
For outsiders : This all may come across as pretty daft or stupid or strange at least, but the insiders will know that all these minute changes to software etc. can heavily/heavenly influence SQ and this sure is related to neutrality all over. Also notice that this starts with a DAC (NOS1) which is to be completey neutral, and not any other DAC will do this really, so if your's is another then you possibly won't be able to comprehend because of that already.
With all this neutrality thing it is good to realize that this speaker goes into all extremes imaginable. So it can output way more high frequency level than normally dialled in (pre-tuned here plus the Fletcher-Munson possibilities) , and it can output bass that crack your walls. So instead of squeezing out at best it's merely a hold-back at best. But of course this is a good thing !
Then the soundWe'll assume the source to be "100%". But please notice how crucial this remark is with just the (only one !) example of Windows 7 against Windows 8 and how Windows 7 will provice distorted sound while Windows 8 does not. So, all I can do is assume the best as how I have it here, and what I can add is that you can have the very same (but not my room).
Mid-bass is superb. Or at least as superb as I could make it which all depends on the bass-mid cross-over.
Notice that the X-Over has been setup such that we all can adjust it later through DSP.
The tightness of the mid-bass and the being forward of voices is scary at times.
I will honestly add that many more speakers will be good at this, because it is not related to extremes as such. In the mean time though, it depends on the speaker how difficult it is to get the mid-bass right, like where the cross-over (if any) is in the frequency spectrum.
When you envision a top end of the mid-bass, like how a blues (not bass) guitar can sound, you'll find yourself in the raging speed of the top horn with its 118dB of sensitivity.
All this speaker is about is speed-speed-speed but how speed sounds for the mid frequencies (think 500-2000Hz) is hard to explain.
Side note for existing Orphean horn owners : Although this is the same horn and drivers, nothing compares to it; your sensitivity will be 114dB (115dB for older versions like my own);
What you get from the additional 3-4dB of sensitivity is a kind of air in that mid range. How that guitar comes forward together with voices. But also how toms (drums) get their individual colour better. How metal remains that and won't get plastic.
The highs.
I have difficulty with putting into words what is going on there but maybe I can do it by referring to other types of speakers :
Say you're used to a wide bander officially rated to 16KHz (or more) then you have no highs in comparison. Just nothing.
If you are used to paper in the tweeter, then you will know that no "metal" ever came from that when listening to this.
If you are used to a dipole etc. radiating speaker, then you will know that your highs would not disturb much and can even sound warm. But if you listen to this Orelo MKII then you see the accuracy lacking in that dipole and that actually the sound is quite grey. Not fast. Smeared. Not capable of the real transients.
With the horn as used here you will see that the room can be so full of all individual ticks and squares and things all in there own position in the space. This too is all related to speed but also how a spec of 22KHz is really that.
Which brings us to the bass.
Here too,
the spec of the low end "19Hz +/-0.5dB" (17Hz at -3dB) is really that and you will only know what this really means when your subwoofers are replaced by this. And how or what ? Speed again !
This time it is about the free moving diaphragms and how nothing (pressure chamber) holds back and how you will finally perceive any 32Hz as a really vibrating that. So you can do the test with speakers rated at 27Hz on the low end, and see whether you hear that 16' organ pipe (32Hz). But I don't think you will hear a thing.
So with a pair of subwoofers (or one) you will ?
Haha, sure yes, but really nothing like intended, and all it needs is going to a church with that 16' in there. Or listen to this speaker, but that's a bit tough when you don't own it;
Here too it is about the "air" which plays quite another role than "music with air" as we may know it. What it does all together is again let sustain all in its own space. An attempt :
If you put up this nice blues with the lowest key on an electric bass guitar you will hear 30Hz. But mind you, this time at "concert level" hence as loud as you may have heard it at a concert. So say this is loud, of course depending on your volume level. But while envisioning this loud bass, all the fragile highs do not mix mix up with this. Nor does a voice. Or this hi-hat playing. The brushes. This is foremost because the low frequencies were tuned so that no audible harmonic distortion is at play. So think of it : Any normal speaker will not take into account the THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) because actually nobody cares much. So, it is an official rating that woofers are allowed to show 7% of THD. You want to know how that sounds ? well, put up a 24Hz tone and listen to 48Hz and 72Hz instead. And point is : while 24Hz will just be audible when no distortion is around, 48Hz etc. is VERY audible and it blasts through the room. This is not because this harmonic is louder but just because we human can easily perceive that while 24Hz is the under limit. Stupid thing is : these distorting harmonics are related to the fundamental so it is not even easy to discern what's brought to you from how reality is. So how would you recognize a 16' organ pipe while perceiving an 8' one ? (64Hz) You won't unless you'd really know the recording and the piece itself (read : what was meant to play).
An electric bass guitar ? same hing. The guitar produces a more square sound to begin with, and a plucked string at 30Hz will show at 90Hz because of that (squared = odd harmonics). So maybe you will hear some "fundament" in the 90Hz but this is really (really !) different from hearing that 30Hz with a now more faded 90Hz on top of it (which now just creates the timbre of the instrument).
And subwoofers ? Oh, they produce 20% of THD easily.
Got that ?
Then now I possibly could explain to certain extend how this speaker changes everything and all. Almost all on the low end sounds different / real just because a. it is output at the proper level in the first place and b. it is undistorted by guarantee.
Small notice : While for mentioned 30Hz this really is so, for 19Hz the 88dBSPL reference level should not be exceeded.
So a bit more about this latter :
If we'd look at FFT analysis we can learn how "ambience" works, and what create it; the most simple example is a kick drum which forms a sort of "thunder roll shock wave" into the room, BUT the room itself contributing to that. And hey, I am referring to the recording room/space (haha, got you). What this does is turning the fundamental of 38Hz or so (this can vary) into that lower "roll" and it can go beyond 20Hz easily. Now here's a new one : You won't know about it, because what happens ?
Well, first what should happen :
The 20Hz is not audible. But it is pressure. So, you will feel it (at mentioned 88dBSPL you sure will). So it is part of the game and it is a support to that 38Hz of the kick (drum). Ok.
But when a subwoofer produces this with its high distortion, you will get 40Hz at least (and probably 60 and 80). The 20Hz will be there too but lower in energy (because the energy is now spread to 40Hz and 60Hz and so on) and the 38Hz kick drum is mixed with 40Hz so it sounds different but also louder (because the frequencies of 38 and 40 add up) and its sound will be more sharp because 60Hz plays as well.
All wrong and all not real.
Of course, when the speaker can't produce 20Hz in the first place (and no subwoofer is around) then you will nicely hear that 38Hz and no interfering 40 and 60Hz. So, good. But now the ambience has gone ...
Like with so many things in this forum, I was not dictating from any schoolbook; I obviously don't like schoolbooks anyway, but I also think that a book for this does not exist (yet).
We must realize that any normal speaker manufacturer will not go (have gone) about like this, which already starts with many things needing to come together first. Too many to exist, really.
Because this is so, I think I can claim a speaker which is so different from anything else (never mind I don't know all) that this really also *makes* the difference. I mean something like : makes the difference needed to again get a few steps closer to the real reality of music through loudspeakers.
It still needs more, and I already have again done more, but that is for another day.
Peter