What you see below first are a few pictures of the switch board at the back of the speaker which allows to set Fletcher-Munson curves. Here you see it in lab setup to determine the proper resistor values etc. before all goes on to a PCB built in the inside of the speaker.
A few examples of the settings (27 in total) :
This is a flat curve and all is "green". On the graph below you can see what it does and it resembles this :
As you can see per "loudness" the curves differ, and we need to look at the 80dBSPL / 90dBSPL curves which assumably resemble our playback levels.
Now, the green-green-green curve is just a flat line and normally loudspeakers will be tuned to such a straight line. The Orelino and Orelo do too, but only if you set it like that.
These are snapshots of the picture above :
and it shows from the shadows on the dip switches how they are set. Also look at the arrow directions next to the switches;
Now think : While the normal loudspeaker will be tuned to green-green-green and the F-M (Fletcher-Munson) curves deviate from the horizontal line partly to under that and partly to above that, the deviation towards that F-M direction will be other than green. Look :
Here you see the switch for the (right) part above the horizontal line switched upwards (higher) and now it is orange.
Here we switched the left and middle part more "into F-M" and both switches are now in their middle position (orange). The right part is green again and the switch is in its most down position.
(the middle led for the right part (normally orange) catches the light of the bottom led in this lab setup).
And here you see that we set the middle part all into the red, or IOW into the most extreme F-M setting (again see the switch settings by means of the shadows).
This one again :
but now look at the texts above the switches;
From left to right the switches are named Slope, Dip and High. And with this one repeated you see it happen :
So there's a slope from 600Hz (look at the mouse pointer !) and which "600Hz" is also denoted under the switches :
So see under the left hand switch. But what you also see is that this "Slope" is controlled up to 6800Hz (6K8). See the mouse arrow for that postiion :
Now, the second switch controlls the Dip, and it reaches from 1200Hz (1K2) to 5000Hz (5K). Need to show another F-M plot with arrow pointers ? no ! because surely you got the idea by now.
Notice : The Dip as such is "in" the Slope, so when the slope is set more downwards the Dip automatically goes along with it. However, since the Dip is a separate setting just the same, that Dip setting determines the deepness of it. More below you will understand when we start showing measurements of this.
The rightmost switch controls the "highs" and therefore it is named "High". Its working range is from 6800Hz (6K8) and the 6800Hz is a lever point (you'll again understand this from below measurement plots).
It is no coincidence that the beginning of its working area matches the end of the Slope's working area because this too you see in the F-M curves might you look at the different levels of loudness.
Remark : If you again look at the F-M plots, you see that there's also working area for that under 600Hz. And if you look more close to our listening levels (the 80-90dBSPL) you see that nothing much happens under 600Hz up to 200Hz. From there (towards the left) things start to change again. And it is there where we can adjust all with DSP (Digital Signal Processing) ...
While this may all look nice to you, it obviously has a purpose. And this goes beyond the Fletcher-Munson ideas;
So notice that the idea of these two blokes (back in 1938 or so) was about our hearing system (mechanisms) and how we human are more receptable to certain areas of the frequency spectrum than others. For example, the "Dip" area consists of "danger" noises we humans from origine receive better (louder) than others. A snap of a branche for example. So, while we perceive that more loud, it may jump out in music when equally (for level) presented compared to the other audible frequencies. It may sound nasty ...
(Notice : with not too many words this is not very well solvable if music is to be sounding less "nasty", but still ...)
So what happens with the adjustable F-M curves is that any louder perceived frequency range is attenuated and the result of that as how we perceive it is now a flat response.
What we, as the owner of this loudspeaker can do with it goes beyond what F-M intended with their curves;
It occurred to me that for example the difference between Windows 7 and Windows 8 can very well be attacked with it. So, too much of uncoloured highs ? then ... put in some Dip. So yes, you might expect that some High should be "muffled" out, but it does not work like that. Not for the frequencies what this is all about.
People might think that this is all the expensive way of applying equalizers, but that is not so; first off it all happens in the high voltage domain (read : at loudspeaker levels) which in this case is a necessity and is all related to the sensitivity of the speakers (118dB). Meanwhile (with this as a given), the crossovers all stay in-tact. Not an easy task to accomplish but obviously the most crucial.
Foremost though, we don't want to have our sound touched by other means than "normal" (which is passive filtering in this case), assumed no DSP is possible at this moment, but while the speaker fully anticipates on that (future upgrade) and now our "switchboard" is even more complicated than it already was because it anticipates external amplifiers.
Can't follow ? it's not all that important for now ...
So then let's now start measuring this.
All measurements were performed at 88dBSPL. Is this important ? Well, actually Yes *if* we think the Fletcher-Munson curves really mean a thing (they are different for output levels).
What you see here is the Slope with all its three positions. Green, Orange and Red.
The dB scale is not shown but it is 5dB per vertical division.
In communication Bert and me got used to S(lope), D(ip) and H(high) positions. Above you see mixed in one picture :
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=2,D=1,H=1
S=3,D=1,H=1
So each switch has its default at position 1, the middle position at 2 and the extreme position at 3.
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=1,D=2,H=1
S=1,D=3,H=1
Got it ?
Varying the the Dip means varying the "presence" (empirically found).
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=1,D=1,H=2
S=1,D=1,H=3
If you payed attention during the introduction you will have notice with these measurements that the "green" for High does not comply to the promised description;
The reason is that the tweeter really needs burning in and now the fun : no problem during the burn-in period because you can just flip a switch for it. This really matters because the horn for the Orelino speaker I used for the past 7 monts really shows more tweeter output by now, and it is audible too.
Here the both extremes are set against each other;
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=3,D=3,H=3
The red line will make older mor bad recording (could be Rock) sound less grey while still detail is picked up and which makes them sound fresh. It is not the best for good balance, but you may like the detail coming forward which can sound really "on-par".
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=2,D=2,H=2
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=2,D=2,H=2
S=2,D=3,H=2
You can also see this as the difference with the previous picture, where the red curve shows the added Dip.
S=1,D=1,H=1
S=2,D=2,H=2
S=2,D=3,H=3
Same as the previous picture but now also the High is set in extreme position (3).
So these were 7 pictures which showed some of the combinations and you will see (hear) that most of them really make sense when it were about some means of wanted perception. Without telling the combined settings, you can expect this (of course each one mentioned also has its opposite) :
- Dial in presence.
- Dial in spaciousness;
- Dial out harshness;
- Dial in über-detail;
- Dial in Mid-bass;
- Dial in highs-colour.
With my own experience from the past 7 months, a lot of music really can be played with (for these settings) in order to get so much more out of it than "normal". So think of music so well recorded that you can set H=3 and all it does is create a very wide stage and sharpened detail while nothing starts to hiss. Things start to fly in the room. It could be your genre of the night and all it takes is setting some switches.
What crucial about it (to let it fluently work) is the levers you see; one at around 400Hz and one at around 7100Hz. So this keeps on connecting the frequency spectrum in a responsible fashion. And for example, setting up a Dip can create more highs. Yep. So what you will be doing in that case is making the 7KHz region more profound. You do this by making the - actually more profound by nature - 4KHz-5Khz *less* profound, so it allows the 7KHz to be heard. Just look at the last picture to understand this.
Similar can happen with making Mid-bass more profound, assumed this goes from 200Hz to 400Hz or so. Just set S=3 (and see the red line in the last picture).
All this is outside of DSP which operates on the bass (up to 400Hz, but can be more for the real tweakers). This is for another topic.
Peter