Shoot. Disregard all that, I was able to get another pop and channel cut out with a 24 bit 48.


Edit-  After more testing, it seems like if I start with a 44.1 in a playlist and add a 48k after and play in unattended, all works fine.  The problem may only be from starting a 48k track

Also, if I reboot and start the Phasure driver control and change from 352, 800 to 384,000 I'll get a pop, so it isn't related to XXHE

I took out the Lush^3 and put in  a generic USB and the popping stopped. There is no noticeable click between tracks that change sample rate and all is working great.

I have Peter's latest Lush^3 settings but may revert to the original ones that it was sent with. I don't know if the connector is not fitting properly  or it is the settings.  I also have the Lush^2 which I can try.

Peter, do you know if removing one of the wires in the Lush^3 could cause a problem?

I do have switch #3 down and have XXHE 2.11. I also need to have the volume set to around -42 because of the sensitivity of my speakers.

I did not have this happen with my non-upgraded NOS1 so I was wondering if there were changes to the G3  which might be throwing something off for me. Today, I was able to play a playlist with 44.1 and 48, with both 16 and 24 bits without any trouble. When I mixed in an 88, I heard a pop and the right side channel cut out. Sound was very faint from that speaker and that continued as I skipped to songs which were other formats.

I turned off the NOS1 from the front switch (not the back) and started another playlist with 44.1 and all went back to normal.

The only thing I can think to try, if it isn't an XXHE setting, is another USB cable. 

David

Hi again Chad,

Closest would be Norway (Bergen IIRC).

But are you saying you own the Sigma ? ... that would be very special.
And if I got it right that you think they can perform better, then I might agree (I was there when they were build). How to solve that is another matter.

?

Peter

David,

Whether Swich#3 is related I don't even know, but it well could bee because this is about an internal ground connection.
Otherwise it is the same for everybody as far as I know - and like Ramesh said - it is a firm tick and most certainly not something unbearable.

The tick is not ground related that I know of, but it is a very brief mismatch between the sampling rate setting (from the one base clock (44.1) to the other (48)). I think you can mimic it by changing the sampling rate manually in the NOS Driver Control Panel (e.g. switch from 176.4 to 192 and back).

What theoretically could happen is that your amplifier is way over powered, seen by the relatively high attenuation you must apply. Thus, say that you attenuate in XXHighEnd in the realm of 48dBFS, then you have a theoretical ~20dB too much power, which would make your "tick" 20 dB unnecessary loud(er) as well. Could that be the case ?

Peter

David,

Jogging my memory. The only thing I remember is a discussion related to the position of Switch #3 on the NOS1.  It was not specifically related to switching to high res formats. I do get a slight "tick" when this happens, but it's very soft.  I may be completely off here, but at one time there was potential for a loud pop related to leaving Switch #3 either up or down (I do not remember) for an extended period of time.  I'm assuming you are using the latest version of XXHE that fixed the "crack" detect issue that could also create a very loud pop.

Ramesh

Hello everyone,

I just upgraded to the NOS1 G3 and Stealth II with the Lush ^3. I’m using all the same settings as Peter, but I get a load pop when the format switches to MQA or a higher res. It's very much like when the DAC is turned off when the amp is still on, so it's quite unpleasant.

This didn’t happen with my older NOS1 as far as I remember and I can’t find a related topic in the forum yet.

If anyone remembers having this problem and how to fix it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Best regards,

David

Thanks Peter, interesting as always.

I am not going waste anyone's time talking about my diy Orelino since it it has nothing to do with the real Orelino. What you said is true, I did not achieve the sound what I wanted by going diy. It is too much of a compromise. The baffle resonances, filters, all of it. That is why got the Sigmas when I got the chance. I never got the filter right by my self so I really understand your point.

Before my next statement I want to say that my system is not perfect. It does not have the magic highs like Acapella ion tweeter has. It does not image 3d like some smaller speakers do. The sound does not have the coherence like good full range drivers have etc.

But it does represent music realistically in my opinion. The reason I listen so close to the speaker is because only then I get to peek into the recording, only then I really feel the music, see the performer in front of me. In my room only then i get the feeling and the sound what I need to get satisfaction out of hifi system - it is funny since once a hifi retailer in my country told me it is impossible to achieve the sound I am searching for when he asked what I want.

I have not heard Orelo or original Orelino (I would very much like to) but I am sure they do music very very well. To my knowledge there are not Orelo or Orelino owners in my country Finland.

Hi there Chad - nice to run into your post.

The original Orelino has been developed by me for it's filter part as a derivative from what Bert did beforehand, and the DSP for the 12"ers in there was done from the ground by me.
I think you have neither crucial part.

... and this is only a small "crucial part" ...

The funniest part is that I personally have one real measure : observe standing waves in the room (read : when they are there a. it is not the very best and b. you will hear the room). Now the thing is : we (Phasure and its community) always hunted for the very best sound and we used all the elements for that in the audio chain. PC, PC Audio Playback software, D/A converter, Power Amps (actively present in the Orelo), USB Cable to the D/A converter, Interlinks. So where we indeed produce each of mentioned elements (with the notice we are crazy, and Bert actually builds the speakers - but he is crazy just the same for these massive projects) - it always comes down to nothing leaving any building when the slightest standing wave can be detected in the slightest (or largest) corner.
Only when the room has explicit wrong dimensions, things may not work out, although with the DSP you may achieve some things after all.

The moral : so many things can be wrong while they should be good, that the in the basis not-distorting open baffle you have at hand, may let go wrong everything when other elements are "not right".

Ramesh (briefremarks) and so many others can testify the truth in this, as - for example - nobody came over and listen to these speakers in advance. Same for the Audio PC. Same for the software (obviously). Also same for the cables. Maybe not the same for the DAC (apparently this is special to people), but all the stuff just builds on the "matching" which by far most people learned from the software (say back in 2008).

And no, I am most explicitly not trying to sell you anything - not even the software - so it is only about the message : work on your other elements and you will have a more than superb speaker. But assumed you have the same power amps as Bert could have provided them and the DSP in there which should do the same job as the Hypex we use in the Orelo, with settings you could have obtained from Bert.

That's all !
Kind regards,
Peter


PS: It may not be commonly known that the Orelo lends itself perfectly for having them 6 maters apart (my situation) and listen to them at 3-4 meters distance. So Yes, this is part of your story.
In the mean time my normal listening distance is 9-10 meters (toeing unchanged).

Chad,

I've had this experience with other speakers, specifically the LX521 that needed a fair amount of distance from the front and side wall.  This has never been my experience with the Orelo.  What I like about them is that you can position them relatively close to the front and side walls--I think I was just too close.  I'm also trying to optimize for listening from multiple positions.  I've listened close and far back.  Different experiences.  The Orelo works well in both cases once the toe-in is set properly.  Too much toe-in was a problem I had.