Hi there Drew,

I can not be sure at all, but it looks like you may have taken a short cut on the reinstall of XXHighEnd. Something like : "let's do the base of that and next copy back from some folder structure I saved".
... And that won't work ...

I don't recall that this happened to anyone, but I see it described in the code. So the remedy is also not really known. Yeah, reinstall the Windows OS again and reinstall XXHighEnd from scratch and re-do all the settings of that (if you know those in the first place).

What you also could attempt as a first :
- Delete your XXHighEnd folder and its sub folders.
- Delete the XXDat folder you pointed at during the initial install (or else look for folders named like that).
- Ask a for a new Activation Code per email (you will receive instructions on how to implement that).

If you did not restore anything of the kind I suggested, please say so. Then we must look for an other reason, or else it may (will ?) happen again.

I may not respond immediately to emails, as I am not always there to monitor it.

Best regards for now,
Peter

Hi Erwin,

Apologies about a late reply.

Of course you don't need to worry about the pinout, or else numerous people would have problems with the connection (which theoretically would be about Absolute Phase only, which can be inversed in software anyway).

Best regards,
Peter

Hi Dave,

Glad that you found something. But if not sure after all, please notice that these days you won't have real reasons for the integrated CD/DVD drive. That will make your search a lot easier.

If the USB does not work there, then no big deal.

Snapped wires ? I don't recall that much. But if you did not do/cause that, then fine.

Best regards,
Peter

Ramesh,

What you probably ran into, is just the building of the first time total structure. For me this takes an hour just the same. After this has been built, it is memorized (stored on disk). But also : newly added albums will only appear in that total list when it is rebuilt. This is a matter of asking for it via Search with no search arguments, tell it not to get from Tidal and some more; you will see it happening when the question appears : "Do you really want to ..." (and then mentioning the number of entries). This is to be answered by No, unless you'd explicitly want to rebuild it (and lose the PC for an hour or so).

Anyway, that was it ...

Regards,
Peter

In the other topic about this (Problem with XXHE not loading directory), you mentioned that even with Explorer you could not access a particular folder. OK, you solved that by changing access rights, but ... WHY ?
So it is probably something in this realm. The OS on that PC is not right or different or ... the OS is just too different (like W11 or a too new 10).

Regards,
Peter

Then I'd rather say it is the PC ?
(but this is a first quick response)

All what Anthony said is correct.
Input impedance of the Orelo is IIRC around 80K Ohm.


Pete, this depends on what you actually are going to do with it. You suggest to try another fine (XLR) cable. But if this is really so - and nothing else, then this obviously won't work because your Orelo does not have balanced inputs.
If this is, however, about a 2nd NOS1 you possess and this is to be connected to something very else with balanced inputs, then fine in itself. But I am not so sure about this, and thus :

The answer is No. In whatever event you can't hope for anything good with a cable made for balanced purpose (your XLR) to behave in any good fashion if it is used as an RCA cable with a wrong impedance on top of it (not that RCA bears a formal impedance but alas).

I see another combination : you do have that 2nd NOS1 and want to try this with your fine XLR on your Orelos ... 
... forget it.
In that case you can leave the old BNC connection be - which you BTW can do anyway, but it will be a total mess electrically. Not that things will explode (all voltages will remain fine) but it will sound like a drag; The half of the XLR you will be using will be worse than a pair of shoe lashes as nothing in that cable will be made / be shielded etc. etc. for single ended operation.

The upside of this all will be that - also with your own original NOS1 you could do this, besides your BNC connection (this is what you asked about too). Thus, no harm done to anything for the BNC connection. But ...

Now this puzzle is pieced together somewhat for me, you won't even had the additionally required wires for a proper XLR connection (they are not hanging loose somewhere in there).
Lastly, electrically such a "faulty" connection has never been tried by me, and again I say the same : it will sound like a drag.
Side note (or not) : I recall a most simple desired combination of two pairs of outputs chosen from RCA, BNC and XLR (but I forgot which), and there was no way I could make that sounding right. The customer in order received an "impossible" from me. But that was judged with my ears and such. What you seem to head for is similar. Thus, what I am saying here is that because of your "illegal" XLR connection, your BNC will sound wrong too. "Will" ? I can't guarantee it.

Do notice please, that all what is impedance "draws" on the output. In this case this is quite directly D/A converter chips (with only one tiny resistor in the path) which have a relation among hem as well (2x 2 for one channel). Thus, draw on this wrongly (or untested) and the one will tear down the other (read : your half-XLR will draw on the other BNC, whether XLR is used or not (not used : means : open ended AKA not terminated). This is fine when it sounds fine. And if you really paid attention, you noticed that this drawing could be on the same chip- half, or the other (of one channel). With Single Ended one half is used for both outputs (like BNC + RCA). With XLR, both halves are used. With half-XLR maybe the other half should be used. LOL.

Try it and let us know ?
And have fun of course !

Peter

Hey man,

Indeed the 33 Ohm was original and intended to be the lowest possible while all still decently working. This was for RCA and XLR the same. However, since BNC is a 75 Ohm official path, those resistors where replaced with 75 Ohm.
Leave that be when changing to XLR ? this is harmless, but the relation with the device at the other end will be slightly worse. Officially, when the other end bears 600 Ohm (a typical pre-amp I think ?) then the 75 is just a tad too high (and the 33 is fine).

Where to put which wire is somewhat harder for me to explain because I don't know how the DAC in question was set up or changed and how "obvious" the wires are visible on their function. However, I suppose that first changing the hot from XLR to "a" pin on XLR is fine always, as long as you apply it the same for both channels. And the other wire (per channel) goes to the other pin. All you could imply is a reverse absolute phase but if you use XXHighEnd, that's settable in there.

Best regards !
Peter

(maybe) Try to interpret that Refresh button as it is intended (LOL). The ToolTip on it could help.
I don't know better than hat this robustly works. But maybe it can conflict with your own setting (which is not persistent) ? Thus, reboot so that your own setting is out of the way, and then next work with the XXHE setting. And of course do that in non-RAM mode. When that works, you can boot from RAM and it will work from there too.

Hi Ramesh,

XXHighEnd takes care of that adequately. See below.

Regards,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,

I think it is best to continue this by email; later today I will respond there.

Regards,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,

Unfortunately the DSP settings can not be read out. I know, not much user friendly, but that is how Hypex made it ...
So it is expected that you know what the settings are, register that (after changes) and maintain that documentation. Notice that you (everybody) received that documention from me, together with the speakers.
Knowing this now, you will find (implied) references to it in the topics I referred to in my first post.

Documentation : This is merely the DSP settings file which is used by the Hypex software to load its settings from, and which are meant to be equal to what you uploaded to the speaker (which is called "downloading" by the software). Indeed via USB (from your PC running the Hypex software to the speaker).

This should get you started ?
But please take note of the very first thing to do : find your DSP settings file, given by you together with the Hypex software. If you don't have that / don't use that, you will be over-writing what's in the speaker with "nothing".
BTW, you will have done the procedure at replacing Hypex boards ?

Best regards,
Peter

Hi Ramesh,

The best I can do is refer to the mere beginning of this board and the "More bass" and such topics (two of them exist). There I let "you" the customers change things in the DSP itself - already quite a task. Turning this upside down : if you can't perform that, then all stops, because it is part of the job.

The (indeed) REW part is something you can learn, but it requires a measurement microphone and an A/D converter to get from the microphone to the digital data in REW.

The measuring itself ? a job which requires a lot of experience. But what you always can do is measure the base (as how all outputs currently) and gradually change things (in the DSP) which you *and* will see happening *and* will hear happening.

See you in a year ?
(not talking physical visits ).

Best regards,
Peter

Hi again Drew,

You can ask what you want, as long as it is for a compatible OS.
This is all about going to Minimized OS, which is not possible without Activation anyway, which will kill the OS when attempted if not compatible.
On an other note, nobody forces you into MinOS, but it is there where the magic happens. This is where the OS for Music Reproduction resides.
Without MinOS and with Unattended there's a glimpse of that too, but way less.

Anyway, no need for an Activated version in order to ask questions - as long as it is on the forum (here).

Best regards,
Peter