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Title: Juli@ Modifications Post by: AUDIODIDAKT on April 08, 2010, 03:01:25 am (http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/7048/julia2.jpg)
Here are some links to mod the juli@: http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=pcaudio&m=48851 http://www.hifiwigwam.com/view_topic.php?id=48335&forum_id=19 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/973311/+60 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/102851-i2s-juli-pci-sound-card.html Title: Re: Juli@ Modifications Post by: robbbby on April 08, 2010, 10:09:56 pm Thank you!
Title: Re: Juli@ Modifications Post by: AUDIODIDAKT on April 11, 2010, 12:53:24 am OMG OMG,
Already applied the Juli@ with a direct spdif coax-output instead of Toslink, but did not really had a change to listen. I only checked the new coax output with a cheepo analog cable with those ugly connectors, to test if it worked. It did..... And now it does........ Just put a homemade coaxial Digital interlink between the juli@ and my DAC. Its a Belden 1694a coax cable with those Eichmann Silverbullits. I prefer I2S over anything, thanks to Peter i had that change to experience. But for the time being, I am very happy this tweak. The hights became more crystal and very very sparkling, but remain smooth. Soundstage is a little wider, but defenitly more into the front and back Bass is deeper and faster, into the mids and mids more into the hights, it makes it more complete. No more "gaps" in the soundstage. If you can handle a solder, just put a decent BNC or 75ohm RCA connection on *her*. And help the lady off her cold. I give this tweak an 8+, sonicly much better. AuDioDiDakt 8) PS: Its also possible to completly lift the spdif side of Hanrun transformer, and connect your spdif directly on the transformer. without making connection to the lines on the PCB. So disconnect all other output lines after the Hanrun transformer. As discribed on audioasylum. Next some Caps ?! Title: Re: Juli@ Modifications Post by: Calibrator on April 14, 2010, 10:31:46 am Well I got off my backside this afternoon and hardwired a 75ohm coax lead onto the card, thus negating the need for that breakout dongle that kept falling out whenever I moved the PC. Doing it this way also negates the need for an additional socket/plug combination.
Tricky part was how to secure the coax cable so that it wouldn't break off from the solder pads when inserting card or removing. I had thoughts of making up a tiny bracket upon which to cable tie the coax, but ended up with an elegant solution of simply binding it to the legs of the middle header connection, using thin cotton yarn. Nice and secure. The coax cable looks huge when laid beside the little surface mount components .. haha Cheers, Russ |