XXHighEnd

Yes, it can be done :)

CPU: Intel E5300
Heatsink: Scythe Ninja Mini (if you have a taller case the Thermalright HR-01 is the best for fanless operation)
PSU: Winmate DC-DC psu with Gateway 150W wall wart*

I'll post tomorrow some benchmark of temperature and voltage stability.
Average temps at closed case are around 51°C for both cores at default speed (2,6ghz) and voltage (1.1V). They can be improved once I undervolt the cpu and I plan to do that, especially close to summer. Ambient temp is here min 23°C.

The Winmate psu is a wonder, no issues at all unlike the famous pico-psu, it works powering just the VFD (which i did to test both parts prior to mounting).
The guy who makes it, is still selling and supporting it, and looking for the best wall AC adapter.

*see:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55153
and
http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55353&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=90

You are listening to music, outside, at the top of Italy's highest mountain, right ?
Are you wearing headphones ?

:)

I've just bought a few Zalman TNN 300 cases. I've only put one together so far with the following components:

- Gigabyte EG45M-UD2H (almost impossible to find)
- E8600 3.33GHz
- 120GB OCZ Vertex Turbo
- 4GB RAM (will increase later once Peter releases XXHE 64-bit)
- RME AES-32

Totally fanless and totally silent!

Mani.

Hello
I use a small Asus board with basic onboard graphics ( I don't use a monitor, or keyboard or mouse for that matter!)
Basic 2 channel sound (turned off in bios)
2.8 4core chip
4gig 1066 RAM
2 32gig SSD's striped
No optical drive
Passive psu
No fans anywhere no motors anywhere
It's hard to get used to turning on a PC & not hearing anything!!
Win7 64bit & dedicated to music ( a bit like myself!)
Happy daze
Jack
ps must update my sig
pps seeing as I'm here, thanks again Peter!

LOL today you are in a silly mood Peter.
I meant minimum 23°C, not minus :)

Hi Mani,
I have the same mainboard, VEEERY good one :)
Which PSU?

Can you post the temps of the E8600 (everest or realtemp)?

I also noticed that with the new PSU the system *sounds better*.

Here you go...

What's really strange though is that according to Windows, I have two different core speeds! Anyone know what's going on here?

Mani.

BTW, the PC had been on for 3-4 hours before I took these temp measurements. I think things remain cool enough in there.


I'm using the fanless PSU that is integrated into the Zalman case - here are the specs...

Mani.

Hi mani,

I believe it says that its a 3.33Ghz processor that RUNS at 2.67Ghz.
Do you have your processor underclocked ?
Otherwise check BIOS for actual values, or run cpu-z
If *all* is already at your wanted settings, just ignore it. (or it tells you the truth and you are actual running at 2.67Ghz)
But thats just what you are doing, underclocking, right?

330.30 x 8 = 2.6664 Ghz


Roy

Yes, of course you're right.

But I hadn't actually intended to underclock - it seemed the bios did this by default. In any event, there is no issue. Thanks for pointing this out.

Incidentally, underclocking the CPU (in my case by 20%) seemed to have little effect on how XXHE performs. The soundcard/interface/DAC drivers seem to have a bigger impact...

Mani.

Hello Mani
I'm intrigued as to why you have gone for such a 'complicated' mobo. Are you running a 'home theatre' set up from it as well, or do you turn all those facilities off?
I went with the adage 'Less is more'. As far as the chip goes, I feel what we need is 'horsepower', cache size is almost irrelevant as none of the data is repeated(unless one listens to the same track all night!) There are many mobo/chip combos available out there that can 'number crunch' efficiently, which is all we require, no?
Regards
Jack

Those Gigabyte Boards are kinda overclockers boards,
That means lots of buttons (or settings) to fiddle around with.
Also there are power settings in BIOS to play with (undervolt, underclock)
Also better copper-lines on mobo for cleaner powering
And the list goes on.......

As you understand those boards have capabilities to our needs;

"Complicated" as in your words, accually means more possiblities to turn stuff off
This is a good thing and they are not that expensive.

Gigabyte sells good stuff and have great service !
But hey thats just my opinion !

Don't worry much about "horsepower", a decent dual-core will do fine. (or for that matter almost any combo will do)
For the feeling of "instand" and lesser power consumption get a SSD drive to put your OS on.

Roy

Hello Roy
I entirely agree about Gigabyte. I've had many of their boards & yes, good for overclocking. But I do not see the point in this project to have all manner of things turned off! We can choose not to have them in the first place. Quality audio, which this is about, usually benefits by having less (potentially) in the chain.
Likewise, just my opinion.
Bye
Jack

There aren't too many mobo options when you're using a Zalman TNN 300 case (it's more than just a matter of finding a micro-ATX mobo - the layout also needs to accomodate all the copper piping in the case). Also, with no active cooling in the case, I was interested in the Gigabyte's extra copper to help with heat dissipation.

If I could have found a simpler mobo that fitted into the Zalman and had the extra copper, I would happily have gone for it. But as AUDIODIDAKT says, this mobo wasn't very expensive... bloody difficult to find though! Certainly, the extra cost of this mobo over the few other compatible ones is totally insignificant compared to the cost of the Zalman case, E8600 CPU and OCZ SSD.

Mani.

Hi Jack,

Offcourse you are right about less is better.
But I think the Gigabyte EG45M-UD2H is a pretty slim build for a beast.

Here is another one, if I could only replace all other not used ports with SataII ports, for more music drives connections!

Hello Mani
I've just had a look at your Zalman case, very pretty, I understand now!
Mine's just a regular micro-atx black cube, hidden from view.
Regards
'Enlightened' Jack

This happens when EIST is active (default) in bios. I have disabled it so it stays at full speed (I needed this to test for stability and decided to keep it). At first i thought that this could cause latency.

From realtemp screen, the cpu is both undermultiplied (6x instead of 8x) and underclocked (2 ghz instead of 3 ghz). The vcore is likely also reduced.
This explains your excellent temps (I still dont know which heatsink you use). :)

Intel did a very good job of energy saving. I wonder if and how this impact in audio performance - I think that in a highlevel system as yours you MAY perceive some differences if you disable the energy saving features of your cpu. You  may then decide to underclock in a fixed way (easier is by reducing the multiplier, IF is allowed, reducing the bandwith otherwise, but this will reduce the memory frequency which is not generally desirable)

There are two entries in the gigabyte bios for these:
C1E and EIST. IIRC I have disabled both. But i plan to reduce the vcore manually.

Anyway, hardware optimization for music playback is completely different as doing it to overclock and bench :)))

As Roy and Mani replied, I also have chosen this motherboard for several reasons:

1) possibility to undervolt the cpu
2) m-ATX size
3) stable, more than similar boards from ASUS for instance
4) integrated videocard that RUNS PRETTY COOL. Almost all other m-atx boards that i have looked at had much higher temps.
5) TI firewire chipset onboard. Save space and money to buy one if a firewire dac is to be used
6) 2oz copper tracks
7) well regulated PSU rails
8 ) lots of features can be disabled in bios

Lastly, the intel videocard is powerful enough that i can play a video or even blue-ray if i wished. This leaves open a HT option, even i'm not using it.

Telstar your the Man 8)
It was your topic afterall :dancing:

Hello Telstar
Now I'm really intrigued, why do you underpower the cpu?
Thanks
Jack

I dont underpower the cpu, meaning that the frequency is always at 2.6ghz and that the drawn power varies with the usage. I suggest you to get Everest ultimate and monitor cpu vcore, cpu W and cpu current (A).

I want to undervolt it of 0.1-0.2V (from 1.1v to 0.9v) to reduce the temperature (should lower at least 10°C this way). Just that.
I prefer to be in control and this board let me do it.

I haven't had the time to do it. I suggest OCCT, in particular the PSU test to stress the cpu which uses linpak (in <10min you can go to 80°C if you are fanless).
I have two 5V and 3V curves to post, one with the mATX psu that came with my case and the second with the Winmate, but I plan to redo the test after I undervolt.

Hello again
I've not had any heat issues with this setup. Peter never really puts it under that much pressure! It's been on for nearly 18 months non stop hidden out of the way. If it gets no music after an hour it hibernates. Since installing the SSD's it's ready to play again in a few seconds. For the first 12 months it had to put up with the heat from a Raptor in there too!
Later
Jack

Telstar,

Did you use 1 or 2 winmates in your setup.
2x 130W winmate is already on its way to Holland !
Was thinking of using 1x130W for mobo and cpu and 1x130W for hdd's and remote control unit
with a lite-on 210W ac/dc adapter from ebay.

Should work fine.....

Roy

One is enough. The lite-on must be very good. I have only 2 hdds + SSD.
For your setup i think you did right to take 2.